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  • new bike, new woes

     mattotest updated 11 years, 10 months ago 5 Members · 9 Posts
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  • mattotest

    Member
    18 March 2009 at 9:24 pm

    Hi, I am new to the forum and a keen amateur mountain biker, recently bought myself a Genesis Core 30 but having problems, I hope someone can answer my questions?

    1) Front fork (Rock Shox Recon 335 U-Turn) very stiff, was told this may losen up over time? I am quite a light 6 footer (11.5 stone)

    2) Front disc brake makes a skiffing noise, have tried adjusting the pads until I am blue in the face. Local cycle shop guy says not to worry as it should ‘wear in’ and give it time

    3) I keep getting punctures! About 30% of my trips out, I get a puncture, usually some thorny branch leaves its mark. Heard of some anti-puncture gel/glue you put on/in the tyre? Sorry pretty noob on this subject

    4) skipping gears…. I’ve been referring to this video but they still skip! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkzvfCaIbyQ also he says once you get the first gear change moving smoothly, and I quote ‘the beauty of indexed gears is the rest of the gears should work fine even under load’ sorry I don’t believe him! Tips appreciated, i’ve wasted hours trying to get smooth gear changes, they either clack on one or two gears or don’t change at all

    Fraustrating! Cheers guys

  • bry5

    Member
    18 March 2009 at 11:45 pm

    Now then, welcome to the forum.

    1. I have found in the past that Rockshox forks do take a little time to bed in, and can be stiff from the start, you should notice the difference after about a month of regular riding.

    You might also want to check you are runningthe forks at the right air pressure for your weight.

    2. Yep the pads do need to bed in as well, but only 3-4 decent rides. Are they skiffing without braking or just on braking?

    3. You can get slime filled tubes that can make a difference. If your gettign regular punctures, make sure you run your hand round the inside of the tyre to make sure nothing is left sticking through on the inside of the tyre.

    4. Its not easy to give advice about gear indexing without seeing what is happening, lots of videos on youtube, and lots of other help if you just google gear indexing. Keep at it, you will get there

    Bry

  • BigBadJohn118

    Member
    19 March 2009 at 12:00 am

    REMEMBER THE LINERS ASWELL THEY PLAY A GOOD PART

    For the Punchers Part me and my mam,dad are Running Ultra lite Tubes with Slime Built into them, plus when Slime Tubes are combined with Slime Liners , you should hardly get a puncher unless it comes in through the Side-Wall of the Tyers where the liners are not placed.

    http://media.rei.com/media/682443Lrg.jpg

    Slime is a Substance kind of thing that Can be put into a Tube Manually if it’s a Care Valve type tube, you can buy Normal Slime Presta Tubes or you can buy Special Ultra Lite slime tubes i have forgot the make sorry i will find the info out, i recall that when sombody puts Slime into a Normal Presta Tube they have to Snip the Valve bit off at the top and keep there finger under the Rubber Hole to stop the Pin From falling back into the tube or something but thats what u really do not need to know right now i dont think anyway.

    We use this gear to put in car Valve Tubes, you can normaly buy it from motorbike shops(LINSEAL TYRE SEALANT) gets used in Cranes/Cars/Bikes…….

    http://images.productserve.com/preview/1498/22393919.jpg

    SLIME TUBES or SPECIAL ULTRA LITE ONES COMBINED WITH SLIME LINERS ARE UNREAL 😉 8)

    Hope some of the Supplied info helps Anyway 😉

    And WELCOME 😀

  • Filthy

    Member
    19 March 2009 at 12:01 am

    1. Might need a lighter spring

    2. Caliper might need re-aligning or disc mounts facing.

    3. Tubeless should cure thorn puntures or maybe slime tubes but havent used em so cant really comment.

    4. Twiddle the adjusters so the mech lines up properly, worst case scenario needs a new cable.

  • BigBadJohn118

    Member
    19 March 2009 at 12:04 am

    1. Might need a lighter spring

    2. Caliper might need re-aligning or disc mounts facing.

    3. Tubeless should cure thorn puntures or maybe slime tubes but havent used em so cant really comment.

    4. Twiddle the adjusters so the mech lines up properly, worst case scenario needs a new cable.

    Stans no tubes is supposed to be AWSOME for Tubeless 8)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_BsT8D9JYY

  • MaraConnor

    Member
    19 March 2009 at 3:07 am

    have exactly the same bike and not a problem with mine 😕

  • mattotest

    Member
    19 March 2009 at 8:07 pm

    Wow great thanks guys that’s really helpful. as regards the ‘skiffing’ it makes the rubbing noise on the disc break even when brakes are not squeezed, I had a close look at the disc itself to make sure it wasn’t bent by rotating the wheel and watching the distance between it and the pads, but doesn’t appear to be bent. Tried re-adjusting the pad with the adjustment screws and improved it but still skiffs

    The indexing, I have a Mongoose Rockadile with the same problem, ok you’ll probably say its me then…however I had the local cycle shop guy sort its gears, was fine for a week, then back to skipping over gears or not changing at all. Cleaned it using teflon canister from Halfords and running wet towel between the cogs to get rid of any gunk…fine for a week, then back to square one. Incedentally I use it to bike to work, 9 miles per day 5 days per wk. On pavement and road.

  • bry5

    Member
    19 March 2009 at 10:45 pm

    If the pads are skiffing without pressing the lever then they are not installed correctly, no amount of bedding in will fix that.

    You have two choices, if they have been like that since the start, take the bike back and tell them the need adjusting.

    The second method is to have a go yourself, do you have the Shimano Deore brakes? Just checked the website for the bike and it suggests you will.

    If you do, they have duel pistons meaning the pads move inwards on both sides when you brake. Loosen the calliper fixing bolts so that the brake can move about while still located to the frame/fork. Apply the lever a couple of times and then tie a band round it so it is stuck in the closed position with the pads tight against the disc rotor. If the caliper bolts were loosened enough, when you pulled the lever, the brake shoudl have moved on the frame/fork so that the disc is directly in the centre.

    With the lever closed, tighten the bolts and loosen the lever, the disc should be in the centre of the pads now.

    Hope that helps, if not, try the Shimano site for an install diagram.

  • mattotest

    Member
    21 March 2009 at 4:34 pm

    Hi guys

    I still can’t get my gears to work properly on my road bike. They either clack, or don’t change at all (usually around the middle gears 4/5/6 out of the 8 ).

    I resorted to uploading an avi (22mb) to help explain things. This vid was after i’d washed and teflonned the gears then wiped with a rag.

    http://rapidshare.com/files/211854372/gearsprob.wmv.html

    I just can’t seem to get it right! Hope someone can help

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