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  • Ribble Carbon Sportive Centaur

     HarryB updated 11 years, 9 months ago 8 Members · 49 Posts
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  • ShinSplint

    9 April 2009 at 12:27 pm

    Having spent a while browsing the Ribble site, and calling them up, I tihnk im decided on the Carbon Sportive Centaur 10 Double… Hopefully visitng Ribble this weekend to place an order, but in the meantime I would appreciate a bit of guidance here.

    Bike comes with Campag Chainset, cassette etc, but there are a few options I can’t decide on… I think i’ve decided against the compact, so thats narrowed the chainset options down to 3:-

    170 39/53 ;

    172.5 39/53 ;

    175 39/53.

    Can anyone please tell me the differences between the 3, and the pros/cons of each.

    Another option to think about is the cassette:-

    11-25 ; 12-23 ; 12-25 ; 13-26 ; 13-29 ; 14-23.

    Again, any thoughts on this would be much appreciated. I know its down to personal preference, but I just need a general idea of the differences between them.

    Rear Gear:- do I go for short or medium??

    I’m gonna be doing a lot of miles, a combination of flat work, plenty of climbs etc, so just need a good all-rounder.

    Thanks for any help 🙂

  • Steve Kish

    9 April 2009 at 1:14 pm

    The chainset length (170 etc) is between the centre of the bracket spindle and pedal spindle. Although some say that this depends on your gear ration and pedal rate, I personally believe that inner leg length should determine this.

    39 inner ring and 53 outer ring are now the accepted standard for road bikes. Used to be 52/42.

    I’d say avoid the 11T block, unless you’re really a big gear man. 53 x 11 = 130 inches, a real leg breaker and probably larger than even Cav uses in a sprint.

    I personally would go for the 13-26 (9-speed, I assume), as it still gives a 110-inch top but with a nice low 40-inch ‘grovel gear’ for those ba5tard-steep hills.

    Assuming that you’ll never need to use the 53t ring with either of the 26 or 23 sprocket, you should be fine with a short-cage mech. I used a short cage with 50/38 and 13-28 (not 11-28 😳 ) and could get all of my 16 gears (8-speed ol’ git, me!) 😉 😀


  • ShinSplint

    9 April 2009 at 1:30 pm

    Cheers Steve,

    I’m gonna print that out and take it to the shop with me, and see if they agree.

    Its hard to judge the best spec for me, as im gonna be doing a lot of training up long steep hills, yet also be doing a relatively flat commute to work, so bits of everything.

    And spending a grand on a bike, I wanna make sure I make the right choice! 😆

  • Steve Kish

    9 April 2009 at 1:44 pm

    As you say, a fair amount of personal choice in there.

    The cranks are the important decision, as the cassette can always be changed (or chopped and custom-built, like Marty and I do).

    Don’t forget that the difference between high sprockets (say, between a 12 and 13) is far more noticeable than between climbing ones (say, between a 25 and 26).

    For this reason, I favour a close-ratio one for the high ones and a big spread for the climbing ones. I currently have 13-28 (sorry, not 11 😳 ) stepped as 13-14-15-16-17-19-23-28.

    I even change the 28 to a 30 when I’m in South Wales. 🙄

    Let us all know what you decide. 8)

  • Dave F

    9 April 2009 at 1:59 pm

    I’m not a road rider, but I found this useful when I was changing crankarms on my MTB. Most bikes seem to come fitted with 175mm as standard, but I changed to 170mm with no noticeable difference.

  • mr-marty-martin

    9 April 2009 at 3:35 pm

    im go for 170’s as i want to spin faster with my gear restrictions…

    i still reckon compact is the one to go for if you want to do hill work…

  • HarryB

    9 April 2009 at 4:57 pm

    Can I ask why you have rejected the idea of a compact chainset?

  • ShinSplint

    9 April 2009 at 8:30 pm

    Can I ask why you have rejected the idea of a compact chainset?

    Basically as i’d read somewhere that a standard is better for racing, and I assumed it meant its easier to accelerate and maintain top speed on a flat. No? Excuse my ignorance but im just not sure.

    Is the compact just as easy to maintain a good pace?

    Thanks for your help.

  • mr-marty-martin

    9 April 2009 at 8:37 pm

    its not that there differant systems or out, its just a differant gear…

    you put a 50 on a double, and a 50 on compact and say run it on the 13 tooth at the back its the same gear to pedal…

  • vince

    9 April 2009 at 9:15 pm

    As i understand it a compact is a compromise between a standard and a triple chainset,i purchased my first road bike at the end of January(a compact) so i’m probably not the best qualified person to answer your questions.

    Basically as i’d read somewhere that a standard is better for racing, and I assumed it meant its easier to accelerate and maintain top speed on a flat. No? Excuse my ignorance but im just not sure.

    Is the compact just as easy to maintain a good pace?

    My guess is it depends on your legs/fitness.I imagine you can go quicker on a standard provided you have the legs to push it.I wouldn’t rule out the compact just yet,no doubt some of the more experienced roadies will give you some better advice.

  • mr-marty-martin

    9 April 2009 at 9:19 pm

    yeh we’ll let harry get back to you as he knows hi stuff 😉

  • HarryB

    10 April 2009 at 6:57 am

    Hi ShinSplint, I hope I’m not being rude but you seem a bit confudes by all of this and I hope I won’t confuse you even more. keep asking questions before you buy. Getting the right set up is very important, especially for a relative beginner.

    CRANK LENGTH: Don’t get too hung up on this unless you are either very tall or very short or you intent to time trial at a very high standard. I ride bikes with 170 and 172.5 and can’t tell the difference when I ride them.

    FRONT CHAINSET: You can go for a triple, a compact or a standard chainset. If you are not very fit and intend to do lots of very tough hills you’ll need a triple. If you are a right fit barsteward and want to rip your legs off getting up tough hills then go for a standard (53/39 teeth) chainset. Vince is right that a compact (usually 50/34 teeth) is a compromise. It enables less fit riders to get up decent hills and it allows very fit riders to get up really, really steep hills or really, really long hills.

    REAR CASSETTE/BLOCK/COGS/GEARS or whatever you want to call it: The choice here is mind-boggling. You can have pretty much anything. The thing to remember is that the more cogs you use on the back, the easier the gear. Fewer means a harder gear.

    GEAR INCHES: Gear inches come from the penny farthing (really) and are a way of calculating it’s very comploicated but here’s an example of how it works.

    Small number of teeth on the front combined with lots of teeth on the back means the bike is very easy to pedal. Large number of teeth on the front and small number on the back makes the bike very hard to pedal and makes you go very fast if you have the legs for it.

    ie 53 chainring and 11 cog on the back will have you flying along a flat road with a nice tailwind but try using that gear on a 5% hill with a wind in your face and unless you are the next Chris Hoy you’ll struggle to move the bike.

    Your choice of chainset depends on how fit and strong you are and what type of riding you intend to do.

    I have standard on two bikes and compact on the other. When I went to the Alps last year I rode the bike with the compact. If I hadn’t I wouldn’t have got up the hills. Not cos they were steep (they are but not compared to some on the N Yorks Moors) but because of the length. Colle della Finestre for example is 40km to the top and the gradient is an average of almost 10%. On the N Yorks Moors I can get away with both but the compact makes it easier. If I wasn’t very fit I’d have to go for a compact.

    Then there’s number of cogs on the back. My biggest is a 25 which is a decent compromise. If you do a lot of hills consider a 27 or 28 as your biggest back cog. If you are doing mainly flat routes then maybe a 23 would do for someone fit or a 25 for the not so.

    You are buying a very, very nice bike that will give you loads of pleasure but if you don’t get the gearing right, that pleasure will quickly diminish into pain and misery.

    It’s not rocket science but honest answers will lead you to the right choice. How fit are you and what type of riding do you intend to do are the fist ones you need to answer.

    I know that’s a very long reply but I hope it helps.

  • HarryB

    10 April 2009 at 7:00 am

    Shinsplint, didn’t you buy a cheap road bike a while ago? What’s that got on it in terms or gearing? What riding have you done on it?

  • ShinSplint

    10 April 2009 at 8:34 am

    Hi Harry, a fellow Hartlepool man 🙂

    Your advise is much appreciated, its all making much more sense now.

    Here’s a bit about me, which will hopefully help a couple of suggestions coming –

    I’m 6ft, and 11 stone. Done a fair bit of riding last year (C2C – 200+ mile route) in 3 days on our mtbs. Plenty of training in around north yorks leading up to it. Back into training now, commuting to work (8 mile each way, 2-3 days a week at the moment). The commute is fairly flat, but we have tackled the likes of Clay Bank a few times last year.

    Also did a 10K run race last year (41 minutes), so plenty of running too – had to give this up due to my user name.

    I’d class myself as reasonably fit at this stage, but plan on doing much more.

    The 8 mile commute generally takes around 25 minutes (not busting a gut). This is on both my mates Bianchi 52/3?, and my current Giant triple chainset. I tackled Birk Brow easy enough on the triple, but didnt attempt it while I had the Bianchi…

    So basically this is why I cant decide, I feel pretty fit, but not ultra strong at the moment.

    Any further opinions are very much appreciated.

    Off out to Whitby now, the coast route, so will get back to any posts on my return. At least there’s fish n chips to look forward to, should the hills be a struggle. It will hopefully be a good indication as to what chainset to go for.

    Thanks again for all your help, great forum 😀

  • HarryB

    10 April 2009 at 9:59 am

    Shin, at the moment I’d be advising a compact chainset. Give me some more details when you get back from Whitby

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