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  • splitting cassette’s

     Steve Kish updated 12 years, 2 months ago 4 Members · 6 Posts
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  • mr-marty-martin

    23 February 2009 at 11:11 pm

    i think i remember someone telling me how to do this but not sure ( may of been steve kish )

    you no when some times the top half of the cassette’s are stuck together, and i think have pins through them…

    anyone no how to split them???

  • Richard A Thackeray

    24 February 2009 at 12:19 pm

    There’s generally very small (2mm?) allan, or normal bolts going through them.

    Some lower model cassettes are permanantly pinned in place

  • tomlevell

    24 February 2009 at 12:28 pm

    Hammer and a nail punch.

    Trying to mix and match cassettes without the little allen keys is probably a bad idea as you can’t then fix them back together. On a Shimano hyperglide system this leaves a very small surface area on the splines that can easily damage them. Especially in smaller gears which have higher torque.

  • Steve Kish

    24 February 2009 at 6:02 pm

    Yup, ’twas me. 😀

    Trying to mix and match cassettes without the little allen keys is probably a bad idea as you can’t then fix them back together

    Not so, Tom. Provided that the ‘wide tongue’ of the sprocket is located in the right place on the cassette and that all the sprockets are facing the right way up (writing facing outwards), the tightening of the outer ring is more than enough to hold these into place correctly.

    The torque of a 2mm Allen key is about 3 to 4Nm before the thread goes; the locking ring is recommended at a tightenig torque of about 40Nm, or 32lb/ft.

    Sheldon Brown quotes:-

    Shimano cassettes that don’t use spiders have most of the sprockets held together by 3 small bolts, or, in some cases, 3 long rivets. These bolts/rivets are not essential. Their function is convenience, in allowing the cassette to be installed slightly more easily. To make a custom cassette, you will often need to remove the screws or rivets. Just discard them, they are un-necessary in practice.

    If rivets, just grind these down gently with a Dremel and use a centre-punch to pop them out. 😛

  • tomlevell

    24 February 2009 at 10:08 pm

    tell that to the singlespeeders who have ruined freehub bodies with slim cogs from cassettes and slim aftermarket ones. That’s why Surly and On One and other have done a large base model so it won’t dig into the cassette. (worse if your using alu bodied units from DT and others)

  • Steve Kish

    24 February 2009 at 10:49 pm

    Sure, but with a single speed unit and without the movement of a derailleur, chain alignment is far more important. You don’t have a pair of jockey wheels half an inch away from the sprocket. You have to rely on the accuracy of alignment of the chainwheel about 18 inches away.

    A fixed wheel sprocket has far sharper teeth than a cassette sprocket.

    Trying to run a single freewheel from a cassette with a load of spacers and ‘it looks close enough’ accuracy and a sprocket with flat-top teeth made specifically for easy of shifting in and out of is far from ideal.

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